The Best All-American Apple Pie, part 1

[carnation037]

The Best All-American Apple Pie

Pie does not get better than this. Reducing and concentrating the juices of
the apples make it necessary to use only about half the usual amount of
thickener, resulting in a purer apple flavor, a juicy filling, and a crisp
bottom crust. Make apple pie in the fall, at the height of the apple season,
or whenever you have the yearning. If ever you want to sell your house, have
an apple pie baking in the oven as prospective buyers come to visit. The
aroma of apples, butter, and cinnamon emanating from the oven permeates the
house like none other and makes anyone feel truly at home.

Flaky Cream Cheese Pie Crust (recipe below)
2-1/2 pounds baking apples (about 6 medium or 8 cups ), peeled, cored, and
sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 to 1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch

Remove the dough for the bottom crust from the refrigerator. If necessary,
allow it to sit for about 10 minutes or until it is soft enough to roll.
On a floured pastry cloth or between two sheets of lightly floured plastic
wrap, roll the bottom crust 1/8-inch thick or less and 12 inches in diameter.
Transfer it to a 9-inch pie pan. Trim the edge almost even with the edge of
the pan. Cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate it for a minimum of 30
minutes and a maximum of 3 hours.
In a large bowl, combine the apples, lemon juice, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg,
and salt and toss to mix. Allow the apples to macerate at room temperature
for a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 3 hours.
Transfer the apples and their juices to a colander suspended over a bowl to
capture the liquid. The mixture will release at least 1/2 cup of liquid.
In a small saucepan (preferably nonstick), over medium-high heat, boil down
this liquid, with the butter, to about 1/3 cup (a little more if you started
with more than 1/2 cup of liquid), or until syrupy and lightly caramelized.
Swirl the liquid but do not stir it. (Alternatively, spray a 4-cup heatproof
measure with nonstick vegetable spray, add the liquid and butter, and boil it
in the microwave, 6 to 7 minutes on high.) Meanwhile, transfer the apples to
a bowl and toss them with the cornstarch until all traces of it have
disappeared.
Pour the syrup over the apples, tossing gently. (Do not be concerned if the
liquid hardens on contact with the apples; it will dissolve during baking.)
Roll out the top crust large enough to cut a 12-inch circle. Use an
expandable flan ring or a cardboard template and a sharp knife as a guide to
cut the circle.
Transfer the apple mixture to the pie shell. Moisten the border of the bottom
crust by brushing it lightly with water and place the top crust over the
fruit. Tuck the overhang under the bottom crust border and press down all
around the top to seal it. Crimp the border using a fork or your fingers and
make about 5 evenly spaced 2-inch slashes starting about 1 inch from the
center and radiating toward the edge. Cover the pie loosely with plastic wrap
and refrigerate it for 1 hour before baking to chill and relax the pastry.
This will maintain flakiness and help to keep the crust from shrinking.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an
oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking stone or baking sheet on it
before preheating. Place a large piece of greased foil on top to catch any
juices.
Set the pie directly on the foil-topped baking stone and bake for 45 to 55
minutes or until the juices bubble through the slashes and the apples feel
tender but not mushy when a cake tester or small sharp knife is inserted
through a slash. After 30 minutes, protect the edges from overbrowning by
covering them with a foil ring.

[carnation037]

Cool the pie on a rack for at least 4 hours before cutting. Serve warm or at
room temperature.

Flaky Cream Cheese Pie Crust

This is my favorite pie crust. It took several years and more than 50 tries
to get it just right and is the soul of this book. It is unlike any other
cream cheese pie crust because, in addition to being tender, it is also
flaky. In fact, it is very similar in texture to a basic flaky pie crust -
almost as flaky but a little softer and more tender, and it browns more when
baked, resulting in a rich golden color. The addition of cream cheese makes
it even easier to prepare because you never have to guess at how much water
to add, and it gives it a flavor so delicious it is great to eat just by
itself without filling! It is well worth purchasing or making pastry flour,
as it will result in a more tender crust.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon pastry flour or 1 cup bleached all-purpose flour (dip
and sweep method)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup cream cheese, cold
1 tablespoon ice water
1-1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar

Food Processor Method:
Cut the butter into small (about 3/4-inch) cubes. Wrap it in plastic wrap and
freeze it until frozen solid, at least 30 minutes. Place the flour, salt, and
baking powder in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag and freeze for at least
30 minutes.
Place the flour mixture in a food processor with the metal blade and process
for a few seconds to combine. Set the bag aside.
Cut the cream cheese into 3 or 4 pieces and add it to the flour. Process for
about 20 seconds or until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the frozen
butter cubes and pulse until none of the butter is larger than the size of
peas; toss with a fork to see it better. Remove the cover and add the water
and vinegar. Pulse until most of the butter is reduced to the size of small
peas. The mixture will be in particles and will not hold together. Spoon it
into the plastic bag and for a double pie crust divide the mixture in half at
this point.
Holding both ends of the bag opening with your fingers, knead the mixture by
alternately pressing it from the outside of the bag with the knuckles and
heels of your hands until the mixture holds together in one piece and feels
slightly stretchy when pulled.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, flatten it into a disk, and refrigerate it
for at least 45 minutes and preferably overnight.